Yes — it's used to waterproof pool shells and pool decks, and once properly applied and cured it forms a seamless, flexible waterproof membrane. Pools are a fully submerged application, which is the least forgiving of shortcuts, so success depends heavily on thorough prep, enough coats, and a full cure before filling. Customers who followed the process — and leaned on SEMCO's support for guidance — report sealing pools and even tricky infinity-pool troughs.

Yes — once fully cured, the VOC-free formula is certified safe for saltwater and potable water, so it's suitable for swimming pools. The critical word is cured: it must be fully cured (5–10 days, longer in cool/humid conditions) before the pool is filled and used. If in doubt about your timeline or pool type, confirm with support before filling.

Because a pool is fully submerged, apply 3 coats to build about 60 mils total — double the standard non-submerged thickness. Reinforce any cracks, joints, or transitions with Fabric Reinforcement in the first coat. Build it up in thin, fully-cured coats; piling on thick coats that never properly cure is a leading cause of pool coating problems.

The base membrane is semi-clear by design, so on a submerged pool it can look translucent if you use the semi-clear base — the fix is to use a pigmented color or stir in the Color Activator for a solid, uniform finish. For pools, always choose a pigmented color and add the Color Activator so you get full, even coverage and the look you expect.

Prep is everything on a pool. The shell must be clean, structurally sound, and dry(no more than ~3% residual moisture), free of dirt, oils, mineral deposits, old failing coatings, and efflorescence — use the appropriate SEMCO cleaner. Fill and reinforce cracks and repair spalled areas first, and make sure the surface is fully dry before you start. Coating a damp, dirty, or previously coated shell without proper prep is the top reason pool applications blister or peel.

A coating that's tacky days later is usually a cure issue: coats applied too thick, in cool or humid conditions, or before the previous coat set. Pools tempt people to lay it on thick, but thin, fully-cured coats are what work. Give it the full cure at moderate temperatures with airflow; if it's still tacky well past the window, reach out to support with your conditions and coat details.

It bonds to concrete, gunite, plaster/cementitious shells, and fiberglass when they're properly prepped, clean, and dry. Rigid, sound substrates hold the membrane best. Very flexible plastic shells are less ideal because they move more than the bond can tolerate, so for those contact support to confirm suitability before starting.

Allow the full cure — 7–10 days depending on temperature and humidity, and lean toward the longer end for a submerged pool in cooler or damp weather. Filling too early is a common cause of blistering and adhesion failure. It's worth the wait: a fully cured membrane is what delivers the watertight, durable result.

Because pools need 3 coats at roughly 100–150 sq ft per gallon per coat, plan for meaningfully more product than a single-coat estimate — measure the wetted surface area and multiply for the coats, then add margin. Most pool jobs use 5-gallon pails plus Color Activator and fabric. Given the stakes, tell SEMCO support your pool's dimensions and surface and they'll calculate exactly what you need before you buy.